I'm feeling for you with that attempt, but only the CX is right.... Although you can see the back of a Beo______ it's not a system... It's a stinker, that's for sure... don't hold it against me anyone!

Ah yes <ahem> Didn't notice...

Well this is the best I could do: Admittedly that's a CX50 not a CX100, but the drivers are the same. It doesn't say much other than the B&O part number I'm afraid.... As an aside, a mad quiz would be: there are 3 B&O items in that picture, and one "related". Can anyone name them? (shouldn't be that difficult...) The

The secret with subs (and it appears it IS a secret, considering all the boomy farty noises I so often hear from other people's) is that they should not be as loud as many seem to think. The other secret (!) is the crossover point/filter is often set way too high, so the sub is shouting out all these low-mid frequencies as well, which our ears can

For some reason the pictures aren't working... I thought it was only I who posted links that didn't work?

Poor things.. they look like they were in Rambo's rucksack... good description though, unlike some listings....

Hi Robert Here is your answer. This device will convert your 110v in the wall to the 220v needed by a European Beosystem 4500. You can get cheaper ones, but you need one with a large current rating because the amplifier when playing loud takes quite a bit of current, and it may fry one of the $9.99 ones... I used one of these in reverse mode (to run

[quote user="Luke "] It's comforting they come with a free fire extinguisher for when they catch fire. [/quote] I notice you say "when", not "if" Originally a quite respectable British company founded by a BBC engineer, Rogers was sold off to the Chinese in the early 90s, hence the rather ghastly looking rip-offs before

[quote user="Dillen"] Ray, I 've been there, except I picked my nose rather than eat a bisquit. Martin [/quote] Thanks for that Martin - it is the only way my electronics capabilities will ever be compared to yours

Thanks for the photo Quim - That looks standard enough for me. So unless it does the Apple trick of looking for a particular drive firmware ID, (which I doubt) then it should be plain sailing to increase the size of the HDD.