The 10mm cut piece of #14 wall plug is then screwed on to the hex bolt. That whole assembly is screwed into the hole I drilled where the original grill plug was. I started the the new grill plug by hand, then used the hex wrench to tighten...just snug not too tight.

Here is a picture of the pieces needed for the new grill peg. The #14 wall plug fits perfectly in the speaker mounting hole. All that is needed from the wall plug is about 0.4 inches or 10mm (in length). The support hardware for the new grill plug is a #4 metric hex head bolt that is 16mm in length.

After the hole for the new grill peg has been started I used a Dremmel tool mounting on the little Dremmel drill press set you can get for it to drill the to its final diameter.

Using the pointed hole punch tool, I carefully pushed and twisting into the grill peg base that remained. My intent was just to make a good mark for a drill bit. However, the tool easily pressed into the plastic. It also turns out that the plastic base that remained is not solid all the way through to the front.

With the grill peg cut off you can see an X outline where it used to be. I used that to determine a center point for making a hole for my new grill peg.

Here is another angle of the cutting off of the old grill peg

I really liked the posting a while back by Andy T (Jandyt) on his Beovox S120.2 refurbish project. I have a pair of S55 and S120.2 Beovox speakers that like most sets, have grill covers with some broken pegs. Today I decided to apply Andy's grill peg fix to my S55's. The first thing I ran into was finding the similar wall plug (called a wall

Done...I was able to removed the original image and placed a note to explain.

Here is an updated wiring diagram that shows the fuses better. The 1 amp voltmeter protection fuse is there per recommendation by the voltmeter manufacturer (Blue Sea Systems - 9353 AC Analog Voltmeter 0-150 Volts AC). The ammeter is an NU 0-10A AC Analog Current panel meter that I bought used off ebay.

I should have explained that fuse better. The fuse in the diagram is one that came with the voltmeter to protect it. There is a second fuse I don't show that is built into the variac. Sorry about the confusion.