Peter: We compared Beolab Pentas against M100s and felt the M100s were better - and that was using a BM5500! The 4400 is quite capable of driving difficult loads by the way - I prefer it to my 8000. Is that a fair comparison though Peter? You're using two different power amps, though I accept what you're saying is that despite being driven by

joeyboygolf: Your answers to the original post are all very much missing the point. The question asked about RL140's driven by a strong, very clean amp. The 5500 certainly doesn't qualify in this respect being fairly modest 55w output. A boys amplifier really! I drove my RL140's with a QUAD 405 power amp which provides at least 100wpc into

I wonder what the RL140s and Beovox Pentas would sound like driven by the same amp? That would surely be a fairer comparison as then the sources and the amp could be kept the same. I suspect the Pentas would win in the looks department, but I wonder what would sound the best - has anyone ever done this exact same test?

casdave: A Beomaster 3400 would be a suitable alternative, they are better in many respects, but do not tend to attract the high prices of the 6000. I know where you're coming from, but I prefer the looks and design of the 6000. Plus it was the flagship model, and there's always a certain cachet about the top of the line models. I looked at

I'd like the Beomaster/Beolab 5000 Peter, but I can't seem to find these in good working order either, despite looking for quite some time now. I wonder how difficult it will be to track down a working Beomaster 6000 then......I was offered one plus a Beogram 6000, two boxed MMC 6000s and 4 mint P50 speakers last winter for around £1000

Having recently moved house I need a new system for my kitchen, and though I was toying with the idea of a Beomaster/Beolab 5000 combination with a Beogram CDX, I've decided that I'd quite like to own a Beomaster 6000 4 Channel instead. I've got a couple of B&O signature pieces (like the Beomaster 8000) and would really like one of these

sveifors: j0hnbarker: I had a similar problem with my CDX, and it turned out I wasn't loading the CD correctly and it was slipping off the platter, so when I pressed play and the lid closed the hole in the CD wasn't lined up with the top of the spindle and the CD didn't spin. Oddly enough it was one CD that was more problematic than the

ChrDH: I have yearned for a Volvo Amazon (121) for a while, but unfortunately it is too expensive at the moment. Generally vintage cars have gotten more expensive the last 5-10 years as more people have found an interest in them. Generally cars are expensive in Denmark, they are heavily taxed (above 200%). So until I finish writing my Masters thesis

I had a similar problem with my CDX, and it turned out I wasn't loading the CD correctly and it was slipping off the platter, so when I pressed play and the lid closed the hole in the CD wasn't lined up with the top of the spindle and the CD didn't spin. Oddly enough it was one CD that was more problematic than the rest. Have you checked

Just to update the SU thread on the Beoworld classic car forum, my Dad never recommended sewing machine oil - that was for something else and I got confused. He recommended ATF, but as I don't have any of that because the MG is a manual, I'll bang in some 15/40 in the dashpots and hope for the best!