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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012
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This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and 1st March February 2012

 

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  • Re: BeoMaster 2400 -noisy bass,treble, balance sliders/pots Need help cleaning /getting to them

    With the rear metal rail off and the two screws under the lid removed, open the lid and lift it up. The plastic grabs under the edge of the sloping front so will have to be eased out gently. The tonecontrol slider buttons will come off with the top cover, the rest of the buttons will stay down (but are lose). The tonecontrol indicator screens should
    Posted to BeoWorld North America (Forum) by Dillen on 07-28-2010
  • Re: BeoMaster 2400 -noisy bass,treble, balance sliders/pots Need help cleaning /getting to them

    Welcome to Beoworld ! The Beomaster 2400 is not the easiest machine to get in and out of. The top alu lid and underlying plastic cover comes off as one part. 4 screws hold the black metal rail at the rear, remove it. 2 more screws are found under the alu lid, lift it up and off. I only use deoxit (contact cleaner) in places where I cannot get it and
    Posted to BeoWorld North America (Forum) by Dillen on 07-27-2010
  • Re: Adjusting Beogram TX2 Set Down Point

    Clean and relubricate the carriage rails, the old silicone grease will have hardened. And then check the excentric adjustment again. Martin
    Posted to General Forum (Forum) by Dillen on 07-26-2010
  • Re: Master 39K

    Another oozing "waxy", at the lower right in this photo. Easily a couple of hours work here. Wonderful ! Martin
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by Dillen on 07-25-2010
  • Re: Master 39K

    A couple of wax-paper type capacitors are leaking wax. This is typical for this type of component and in a set like this, these "waxies" are usually all leaky or all OK. Almost never the latter. Fitting wax-filled paper components in a set with high voltages and high temperatures doesn't make much sense today and I like to replace them
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by Dillen on 07-25-2010
  • Re: Master 39K

    What's even worse is that this blue cap is the suppression capacitor. Sitting right across the AC mains, it is in a very stressed position and the tiniest leakage here will cause a heat build-up in the component which probably explains why one end has started to bulge outwards. Its not uncommon to find the suppression cap blown to pieces due to
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by Dillen on 07-25-2010
  • Re: Master 39K

    A green capacitor near the rectifier valve looks a bit new as well. So does a blue plastic sleeved electrolytic one mounted nearby. I will let them both stay if they work and, judging by its type, at least the green one will probably be fine. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said about a capacitor right behind it, the one wrapped in blue paper, a Janco
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by Dillen on 07-25-2010
  • Re: Master 39K

    Thanks guys. Your feedback is greatly appreciated ! Yes, the dial lamp doubles as a means of setting the working voltage. Or at least switching between 110V and 220V. Running on other voltages would require a lamp with different specs, which could be ordered from B&O. The missing filter/smoothing cap in ipauls Master 39K is of course a shame but
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by Dillen on 07-25-2010
  • Re: Beomaster 1001 problem

    Probably the main smoothing capacitor. That'll be the large one sitting in a bracket at the end of the amplifier board. Mount a 6800uF 63V and you'll be fine. Martin
    Posted to Vintage Products (Forum) by Dillen on 07-24-2010
  • Re: Master 39K

    The chassis looks to be in superb condition. There's not a lot obviously bad and most components look fine. The majority of resistors used in this set are of the Vitrohm brand and they are all cast in black plastic or bakelite with printed values. One resistor, however, looks newer than the rest and is of a later type with the well-known color-bands
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by Dillen on 07-18-2010
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