Here is Module 14 front and back before the recap.

The 14 Module - Remote Receiver was a little tricky to remove. This board isn't mounted to the chassis with screws like the other boards. It is held in place with plastic tabs. I wanted to make sure I didn't break any of the tabs and the IR receiver piece fits over a tab that is hard to get to as seen in the picture below. After loosening the

Here is the 07 module with the electrolytic caps removed and the replacements. I forgot to take a picture after I soldered in the new caps so I'll have to show a picture of the finished board re-installed in the chassis.

I think I have found my favorite module to recap - 07 - RIAA Amplifier

Great, thanks. I will be changing my belt too with one I got from Dillen. I am almost done with the base PCB recaps. Then I will start on the PCBs under the lid.

Thanks for the reply Mika. The experience and understanding of the circuits part is what I would like to get to. Until then I play it safe and try to match what was existing. -sonavor

The reason I asked about replacing the two 0.47uF electrolytic caps with polypropylene was because I had read that the poly caps don't wear out. They also usually have high voltage limits so can take a lot of punishment. Aren't the poly caps generally used in small capacitance values because they are affordable at those values? Is the reason

Here is the 08 Module after the recap. I noted the one bipolar cap. I also noted the two orange 0.47uF electrolytic caps that were not recapped. Those weren't in the kit. I was wondering if those are a small enough capacitance where they could be replaced by a polypropylene film capacitor?

The 08 Module is the FM tuner board. It takes a little more care getting out than the others so far because it has a big wire bundle going across one side (you can see that in the earlier picture of this board when it was still in the chassis). Once out here is the front and back.

I pulled the old trimmers (R110, R134, R210, R234) and checked them. They initially measured a higher ohm value across their contacts than what should be valid for 100 ohm variable resistors. If I moved the pots back and forth the measured ohm values looked much better. So I take that as meaning they are oxidized. Since I have four new ones in Dillen's