Happy New Year, all. I resolve to have my first post in 2013 be my two thousand thirteenth post overall. Got a ways to go. Hhhmmm, maybe I'll need another speaker restoration thread and another trip to JaffBay....

[quote user="Karla"] [quote user="beamve"] Please don't buy Bang -Olufsen products because they are expensive and not of good quality today [/quote] As all of us just halted our purchasing intentions on the strength of specificty of your post, please make sure to let us know when they are not expensive and of better quality so

Here's the broken board. As you can, there are several cutouts. Anyone want to share a repair procedure? I've never repaired a trace before. Do I just superglue the two pieces together, then, I don't know, use a fine grain sandpaper to file down the trace? Then repair the trace with a conducting pen? I just googled "repair a broken

[quote user="burantek"] Year+ later and I finally placed an order with Sounds Heavenly for the interconnects! I will be using the Niles SI 275 amp to drive a pair of S45 single frets to start. More when the cables arrive! [/quote] Yes, but where? Dining room where I saw them?

[quote user="hemenex"] Yes this has been created thanks to Visual Basic 6 and Buttonmaker [/quote] +1 to you, sir! DIY for the win!

[quote user="chartz"] By the way, when the counter belt is out, depress commands during five seconds to cancel auto-stop! [/quote] Bummer....wish I knew that yesterday.....

[quote user="jrantala"] Oh yes, the timer belt: I left only small opening between the machine and keyboard (i.e. almost closed the keyboard down) and then used my wife's crochet hooks to get the belt in place. They are actually very good tools with all belts, tuning wires in old radios etc., the crochet hooks! - Jari [/quote] Nice tip

[quote user="chartz"] Do Martin's belt fit well? [/quote] Belts seemed perfect.

Well, I got everything on the mechanism back into it's rightful place, then got the mechanism itself back into the case. Got the two PCBs screwed back down, and got the solenoid clip back on. So all that's left is to put the keyboard and the plastic back onto the top of the deck. Except you have that belt to the timer that's connected to

Make sure the pole/bar coming out of the solenoid underneath is pushed out all the way. Line up the fork into the solenoid bar/pole, then it's a bunch of pushing (lightly), moving side to side and back and forth and lining up the side arms with the slots. And don't forget to get the ball bearings into their little grooves and upper mating part