[quote user="jgunzelman"] Can I ask what you used for cutting the case? [/quote] Hi After scribing the case in the appropriate places, I just used a mini hacksaw with a sharp fine blade to make the preliminary rough cuts. Provided that the case is held and supported securely, it doesn't usually crack or split. Thereafter, I use the Dremel

[quote user="chartz"]I can hear the scrap yard calling... [/quote] Chartz You mustn't use such foul language , everything gets fixed eventually. Just wait for a quiet moment and strip the deck down once again. It will probably turn out to be something very simple and it doesn't take that long to dismantle and reassemble. If you want

Hi Paul That sounds like a neat solution - I know that those lamps are very difficult to source. Have you any photos showing how you put everything together? Regards Geoff

Assembler moment appears to be the slipping force on the clutch. If it is set too low then you will get a lot of clutch slip. I have tried to set this in the past by wrapping cotton around the pulley and using a pre-weighed stack of 20cent coins to develop the correct moment - so this procedure can be done at home. I am not sure what effect a slipping

Hi Jamian It does appear that you can still get the foam pads for the Form 1 headphones, I got two sets just two months ago from our local B&O dealer. However, they are a diminishing resource and I was told that it is going to be difficult to get any more if needed. Cost in Oz was about A$25 for the kit of two earpieces and two temple rests. Part

Hi sodoi18 I'll give you some positive feedback on the wireless system because I use it very often and it works very well indeed. I have three units, one transmitting and two receiving. One receiver is used for the audio channels for the link TV and there have never been any delays or dropouts. The second receiver gets the NMusic and NRadio from

Chartz If you are checking the thrust roller, I usually look to see that there is at least a small clearance between the roller arm and the tape head frame while the tape is playing. If there isn’t any clearance, the roller arm is resting on the frame and cannot exert any additional pressure on the roller and capstan. Then you will have to do

chartz Just a thought, but is the wow frequency the same at the beginning of the tape and the end of the tape? An increase in the frequency can indicate that there is some drag on the rewind spool and this will change as the spool rotational speed increases. If the wow frequency is similar at the start and end of the tape, the problem is more likely

Martin Thanks for your response. You are correct when you say that the hexagonal section has split. The cap that goes into it has a very tight fit and simply blows that thin section apart when the plastic ages. A glue would only work up until the time that the cap need to be forced back in and then the tower splits wide open again. When the hexagonal

Hi chartz You have obviously determined that you have a “wow” problem with your tape deck and you have made the first estimates of the frequency – “5 or 6 pulses per second” which puts it at ±6 Hz. I am not sure what service manual you are working with but there is a reference to the source of wow frequencies in