A few quick questions: -in B&O speak, what does "DTV" stand for (I'd assumed digital TV and that's why I liked having that button dedicated to the Apple TV)? They use DTV for satellite, digital, etc. My STB is digital, and the manual recommends using DTV for STB control. -how do I add "PC" through LIST? Standby+List simultaneously

Try putting your STB on DTV, and your AppleTV on PC (adding it through LIST). My STB responds to on/off through DTV, and the AppleTV behaves nicely with the PC assigned to the HDMI.

My AppleTV light dims from bright white to dim yellowish when it goes into standby. Try setting DTV instead of TV as your tag for the signal from the STB.

The STB issue could be a function of the STB. My cable provider's box responds to the commands from the BV8 when using Follow TV, and switches both off and on as it's supposed to. Try connecting the STB as DTV, that's what was recommended by my dealer. As to the ATV, I have set the screen saver to NEVER engage, after a while the ATV just

Have to second your opinion on the BV8's image quality. I don't miss more connections, but then that's probably because I'm using it in my office/study. I have the DVD-player connected through the STB, and the AppleTV goes into the HMDI. Have you used the options for setting up the IR with the STB? On my television I can choose between

I have a latest generation Mac mini, bought last year, connected to a Kuro 50" screen with a DVI-to-HDMI cable. The Mac mini is set to output its native resolution to the Kuro, 1360x768. The upscaling from DVDs, either played straight from the optical drive or ripped to harddisk, is simply formidable. The quality is outstanding, and I haven't

Often it's mechanical fault. The cable's been there for ages, it can have gotten damaged, a nail may have been hammered into it, when someone was placing another run of wire next to it ... It's really worth it to have the signal strength checked, and to replace them if there's a drop that can't be accounted for.

Nice factsheet, Keith. Thanks. Can only second the sentiment. Believe I've mentioned my experience before. I had the internal cabling revised by the cable company, and had them set up a dedicated path with shielded cable (without distribution points into other rooms) to the main viewing room from their point of entry. Just as with your experience

Yesterday I discovered that when the screen is very bright, almost all white, then the dimmers don't work. Clearly the plasma was interfering. I had a bright image up, and lost control of the RAone's. But when the image changed to a regular contrast one, then there was no problem.

Here's some more B&O Art. I'd pay good money to own that -- well, we have, haven't we?