60s - BeoMaster 900 - what a funky little amp! 70s - BeoMaster 4400 - (maybe because I own one?) 80s - Difficult to say, most probably the BeoSystem 4500. 90s - Certainly the BeoSound 9000! 00s - BeoLab 5s, without even thinking, and IMO to this date, B&O's greatest product...

The bolt under the base? Is the washer missing?

Teardrop - Massive Attack. I can't stop listening to Mezzanine at the moment - arguably the best produced album in my collection...

It's there and ready to go in the Beo5 config tool, but it's not currently working properly, or so I believe. From what I know, you will dock the Beo5 to your computer, open up the config tool, put it in the right 'capture mode', and point the 3rd party controller at the Beo5 to learn the commands. I haven't seen it working yet though, so this may be

Possible once the Beo5 can learn commands - which I believe the software is ready to do it, but it's not functioning properly yet .

I find mine very stable? Sure it crashes once every few weeks, but it's pretty darned stable given how new the software is...

I'm not quite sure about that, I've heard it before though. The BeoLab 3s overall feel fantastically well built to me, and the ALT always feels very metallic. If they have swapped it for a plastic ALT, then I can't say it's affected the quality or feel of the speaker at all...

Sounds like the sound board to me. First course of action would be to speak to your dealer, I don't think there's much else can be done through us...

I think B&O knows perfectly well what they need to do. As they've already stated, they're going to be re-focussing on their core competences - audio and video systems. The problem has nothing to do with PIN protection on speakers or a lack of digital connections on some of their sound systems etc... That's all completely irrelevant to the situation

I'd say so, but for your information, the IR transponders are cables with a 'minijack' connection on one end (the kind you see for iPods etc...) and a tiny little black box on the other end which 'blasts' out IR signals. The box sticks over the IR receiver on whatever device you want to control, and blasts it with IR signals. The other end connects