Sounds like it stopped mid-cycle for some reason. What happens if you push the tonearm towards the record center (over the lead-out groove)? Martin

Speaker cement looks a lot like woodworkers glue, that's correct, but speaker cement does not dry up completely hard. It will remain a bit flexible, even after years. Using a glue that hardens will introduce a stress zone in the surround material and the surround will often develop cracks right at the glue edge. Besides, woodworkers glue will not

Thanks for letting us know the results. Sorry to ask this, but have you tried with a record on the platter ? The deck will not start without a record. Are the transport safety screws released ? Martin

A capacitor is not just a capacitor and don't expect the most expensive or best spec'ed ones to provide the best performance in all situations. Depending on the type of capacitor, it will perform best and last the longest under f.e. certain voltage conditions. F.eks. a standard 35V electrolytic capacitor will not last long if only ever working

Det er ikke købt hos B&O men er af et fabrikat, som B&O også har brugt. Selvfølgelig fabriksnyt og det er ikke dyrt. Du har en PM (se i inbox'en øverst i højre hjørne af denne side). Martin

Der er et muting relæ, hvor kontakterne bliver dårlige. Man kan rense kontakterne men det holder som regel ikke ret længe da det er selv kontakt-overfladen (platin), som slides igennem. Det er muligt, at B&O ikke længere kan levere et nyt relæ, men det kan jeg. Martin

I can recommend Axel's retip'ing service. I had a bunch of cartridges done recently and I'm quite impressed with the results. Martin

I have seen what Craig describes in many S75's. The flex leads that run from the cone to solder tags on the metal basket runs through isolated rivets mounted to the metal basket. The rivets inner lip breaks off and travels down the flexible lead that moves with the cone. This causes rattling and distortion. Sometimes the outer part falls off too

And he's got four of them... Martin

Now, everything is, if not fine and working, then at least safe to power up. Workbench cleared, voltmeter across the high-voltage rail for monitoring and the mains connected to a B&O RT12 variac. Switching on. Increasing mains voltage slowly. Watching as the mains current rises slowly. Dial lamp starting to glow. Up the voltage to about 100 Volts