Hi Odinn Yes, your failure is just about in the same place as mine so it must simply be a design weakness. The plastic section as far as I can remember actuates the limit switch by following an inclined metal track. It has to be able to follow both sides of the track so that it can return to the original position. You still have a decent length of plastic

Jacques It does appear that Tape End is a recording function - I have never tried to set it up for playback mode. I might just have a go at that one. As for the LEDs, you can practice on any one of that range of displays which were used on many machines. I used a display from a destroyed 7700 to hone my skills and later on, tried my luck on the BC9000

Pictures seem to have come out extra large for some strange reason. I hope that you can interpret what is going on. GR

Hello Odinn Welcome to BeoWorld, its a great forum for getting lots of useful information and having fun. This thread goes back a long time now but the good news is that my CDX has continued to run faultlessly. Things get tricky when the plastic parts start to break up and you do need a certain amount of luck that the repair will hold together for a

Jacques Working on the LEDs wasn't too bad a job and I have now replaced all segments in three different displays. Soldering about 40 mini segments isn't good for the eyes but the results have all been well worthwhile and fairly inexpensive, about $15 per display. Best to find a practice display first - the skills and techniques took me a while

Jacques Now you can have some fun fixing the BM6000 TP8 LED display! Nice looking setup Regards Geoff

Jacques My two BC9000s both tend to run hot and make good heaters during winter. They are the hottest of all of the heat sinks in my house. Whether that is "normal" or not, I am not so sure. Geoff

No problem Chris, I think that you are going to have fun re-cabling the LC1. It would be good if you could post the results of your efforts, particularly, the lead lengths and the cable type that you were able to use. The external diameter of the cable on my box is between 7.5 and 8mm which seems to be rather heavy for a 300W lamp. You might have more

Hello Brian The fact that the touch system and the light is working means that most of the LC2 is functioning properly. The problem is with the IR interface and it sounds as if the small circular PCB might be faulty. This is readily replaceable and you should be able to get a new board from your local B&O dealer. The new board is relatively inexpensive

Hi. This is not an easy cabling job, I couldn’t even get enough opening space to take some decent photos. Even identifying the pin connections was difficult to see. However, I do have the following information for you: Pin 3 – Neutral out Pin 2 – Neutral in Pin 5 – Active in Pin ? – Active out I assume that the last pin