There is a cleaner for price stickers... smells like citrus oil. Works fast and perfect. Alkohol and paint thinner are not the right material to clean ist. The paint can resist the thinner, the graphit coating does not. I use Loctite 480, a elastic black rubber cyanid glue. Perfect for it... we use it for glass repairs.

Beware: a 80c32x2 is a real 80c32, but it will not work. There are some extensions of these processors, which will not work. I had several BM7000 for repair, "repaired" with the "x2" version. They worked some hours or some days without any problem, suddenly they stopped operation. And started to work after disconecting power. And

Ja, es gibt die Versionen V1.3 V2.1 V3.0 V3.1 Der Unterschied ist die vorhandene oder fehlende Clock bzw. Control Taste und ddie Kombination mit oder ohne RDS. Ein Update ist möglich... wer ein 28-poliges SMD Eprom auslöten und ein neu programmiertes wieder einlöten kann und das zur Datensatzgewinnung bei einer anderen schon mal gemacht

Nein, geht nicht. Jedenfalls nicht für einen normalen User. Die 4-pol Version enthält die gesamte Steuerelektronik im Motorstand, die 5-pol Version ist ein dummes Poti und die beiden Motoranschlüsse. Letzteres hat die gesamte Steuerung im Fernseher, im Motorstand selbst ist garnichts.

Have you checked the date of your system? Weekly is a relative programming, tomorrow 3.1.2011 is absolut. Maybe, your system is still in 1992...

The cheapest coal resistor is good enough... 5% 0,25W. Use the Fairchild BC328... Vishay BC Components was PHILIPS some years ago, ähm, they bought it ... ;)

The BC550 will have a very hard time, to replace with his 100mA maximum current a 800mA type BC328/338... And it has a reason, why B&O used this type of coal resistors. 0.6W metallfilm with its high capacity for overload will cause also a hard time for the stressed components... the resistors are fuses and for limiting the current during overload

Replace transistor 6124 and 6125 and the two burnt resistors direct next to them. That's all. And replace 2103 by a 47uF 16V axial type. Either original Philips or the newer type "BC" components. It must be a blue cap, nothing else. This cap is picky.

I dont think, that replacement drives are still available... and 90% of the drives have no problem. It's the controller, bad caps or the power supply. You will need somebody to repair the controller in your country.

The rubber part was a simple ring, that got lost. The steel frame cuts it after some time. The opening speed is controlled by the cpu. The switch tells the cpu when to accelerate or to brake before end position.