Marc, Martin: Thanks for your assistance with this. The problem turned out to be the spindle table height. The spindle motor was replaced with new a new one and the table was too high. Derek

Think this through... You have a motor driver which supplies power, a fuse, a few components, a transistor and a motor. Start from motor driver and work your way through the chain. We first test for presence of power which you've done (fuse blows) Fuse wont' blow if there is no power. We should test for presence of correct power, which you haven't

Jeff: Again...I refer you back to post 154952 of this thread. Derek

Jeff, 1) If the motor will run on a 90 mA 9V battery what makes you think changing the value to 500 mA will help? 2) Fuses are there to protect the circuitry and very smart Danish engineers select the appropriate values accordingly. If during a fault, fuses do not blow, then something else does and usually that's more catastrophic and expensive

Yep, I second Craig's advice. Try wiggling the wire at the point where it feeds into the RCA connector and you may hear some sound. Very often the connection is broken internally. To fix this, chop off the connectors and solder new ones on.

>So that begs the question why would the fuse keep blowing if the original motor was OK in >the first place and the replacement motor came with the transistor board attached, yet >nothing has changed? I keep blowing fuses. I refer you back to post 154952 of this thread.

Jeff: The correct value is located in the service manual. I seem to recall 250 mA. 850 mA is awfully high for this kind of motor. The current from a 9V batter is about 90 mA. You can prove it to yourself with your spiffy Fluke meter. Put it in current mode. The meter of course will need to be placed in series with the motor not across the batter. Derek

Jeff: You still haven't answered: 1) Does the fuse blow when you power up and hit play with the motor REMOVED. 2) If it does not what is the voltage reading at the output of the fuse How are you testing the motor? Are bypassing the transistor when you are powering through the battery? Did you test the Bill Rapp motor also with battery? Does it power

Sverre: One other thing you can try if you haven't already fixed the problem is to lower the spindle motor table. That is get the CD closer to the optical pickup or if its too close to move it back up a bit. The focus distance does make a difference. Derek

Seems to you me you have too many unknowns. 1) Did you do as I suggested: remove motor, power up and see if fuse blows? Can you measure a voltage across the output? 2) How do you know that the used motor is good? Don't rely on someone telling you; check it out for yourself. Put together some batteries (assuming that you don't have a power supply