Could be a lamp/sensor problem. Inside the carriage is an opto sensor tat reads the angle of the tonearm and produces a signal to the electronics to drive the servo motor and move the carriage accordingly. Can you hear the servo motor run when the tonearms are non-parallel ? If it runs, it may be a mechanical problem. If it doesn't, it may be a

There is an adjustment screw on top of the cylinder to adjust the air in/outlet rate. It's usually locked with a bit of locktite or similar. It's quite sensitive and you will find that the adjustment should be done in very small increments. Martin

The earlier woofer was a VIFA M25WN-40 Later a SEAS 25 F-EW was mounted, requiring changes to 4 components in the filter; One capacitor (C2) and two resistors (R2 and R3) was removed and the ferrite core of the coil L1 was changed to give the coil more inductance. Martin

I only have good things to say about the rebuilt MMC20's. Martin

Yes, the woofer type was changed in production. You have the late version. Martin

I can only agree with you. I had a bunch of cartridges done by Axel and the results were excellent. Quality never goes out of style, it just gets harder to find. Martin

I normally don't do many TV's but I do allow the odd family set to slip in occasionally. This time it's a Beovision LX2802 that has started to buzz. The buzzing is coming from both speakers and are worst (highest volume) when large portions of the screen is white. The set works fine, the picture is sharp and good and the sound is nice as

The transistors work together in sets of four. If one fails, the remaining three will see an overload. I suggest you replace them all eight in one go. There is a H-bridge transistor kit for the Beogram 4000 to repair faults like this, which seems to be more common in the Beogram 4000. I haven't had time to check if the same transistors are used

Consider it sold ! You have a PM. Martin

On the lower left side of the Beomaster is a row of holes. Behind them (inside) are trimmers (potentiometers) for preset'ing of input levels. They often oxidize and lose contact but insert a small screwdriver and rotate them back and forth a couple of times each and they will usually work fine again. Worth trying in your case. Martin